The rainy season was nearing its end, and this year, the wanderer in me had yet to embark on a single journey. A restless longing stirred within me—I needed to go somewhere.

As fate would have it, I met my uncle, Mr. Kasture, a senior litterateur, one evening. In the midst of our conversation, he suddenly asked, “Can you spare 3–4 days in the last week of September?”

Without hesitation, I responded in my usual style, “Yes, Chacha ji, tell me.”

He smiled and said, “Nothing special. I am heading to Calcutta for a Literature Festival. If you accompany me, we can also visit Kamarpukur and Jayrambati. You do know the significance of these places, don’t you?”

I hesitated for a moment before replying, “I only know that they are connected to Swami Vivekananda’s guru, Ramakrishna Paramhans ji.”

Uncle, with his characteristic tone, remarked, “It is truly God’s grace that you know this. These days, most people don’t even know about Swami Vivekananda, let alone his guru and birthplace.”

Then, turning back to me, he said, “Let me know if you’d like to come, and we’ll make the necessary arrangements.”

Seeing an opportunity, I hesitantly asked uncle if my wife and son could join. He gladly agreed.

At home, I shared the plan with my wife Varsha, urging her to come. She was concerned about our one-year-old son’s disruptions. I reassured her, citing Uncle’s fondness for children.

Three days later, Uncle called about an event in Maniktala (Kolkata) on August 31st and advised me to book tickets accordingly. He would arrive Kolkata via Guwahati and meet in the event. We prepared for our journey, opting for air travel. Excited, my wife looked forward to her and our son’s first flight.

Our stay was arranged at a hotel in Bidhan Nagar (Salt Lake City), a well-planned locality in Kolkata named after Bharat Ratna Dr. Bidhan Chandra Roy, the first Chief Minister of West Bengal and a revered philanthropist. Today, it stands as one of the city’s upscale areas.

We took a taxi and headed to the hotel. With Navratri set to begin the next day, the city was adorned with vibrant hoardings and banners, illuminated by dazzling lights. Images of Durga Mata and Mahishasuramardini bore a Bengali inscription:

“Maa aaschen, tumi kothaye?”—”Mother is coming, where are you?”

As our taxi driver, Anand Babu from Bihar, switched on the radio, the popular Durga Puja song “Dhak Baja Kashor Baja“ filled the air. The vibrant Bengali melody instantly lifted our spirits, immersing us in the festive atmosphere and reminding us that we had arrived in the sacred land of Bengal during Durga Puja.

In Bengal, the world-famous Durga Puja celebrations begin from Shashthi, the sixth day of Navratri. Early in the morning, we bathed and prepared to leave for Dakshineshwar Temple by 6 a.m. A special aspect of this journey was our traditional attire—Varsha wore a Bengali saree, while I dressed in a dhoti-kurta.

The previous night’s rainfall had left the morning pleasantly cool, with minimal traffic. Covering a distance of 15 km, Varsha, Aarav, and I arrived at Dakshineshwar Kali Temple. The heavy rain felt like a divine blessing. Drenched yet undeterred, we reached the temple’s inner sanctum, where Kali Maa resides. With the roads empty and no queues, we entered the sanctum directly—an indescribable experience. I stood in quiet reverence, absorbing the moment before stepping out, still in the same meditative state.

Later, a local priest shared his belief that only a few are fortunate enough to witness the divine while drenched in the rain, making our experience all the more special.

We explored each site with deep focus, visiting Krishna Temple, Thakur Ramakrishna Paramhansa’s bedroom, Rani Rashmoni’s temple and samadhi, various shrines, Ganga Ghat, saintly statues, the Dwadasha Jyotirlingam Temple, and the Dakshineshwar Temple Library, among others.

Outside the temple premises, local snack shops offered Luchi Torkari, a delightful Bengali dish of sweet puri and potato curry. After savoring the meal, we boarded a state-operated ferry from the Dakshineshwar Temple jetty to cross the Ganga towards Belur Math. An affordable and convenient mode of transport, the ferry ride made for a pleasant experience.

On the boat, both locals and tourists from across the country traveled together, some savoring Bengal’s famous Jhal-Muri, served lovingly by an elderly vendor. My son, witnessing the vast river for the first time, seemed captivated by its depth. The rain had ceased, leaving behind a serene atmosphere.

Ramakrishna Math

Its main attraction is the Ramakrishna Temple, housing Shri Ramakrishna Paramhans Ji’s samadhi. Other temples honor Mata Sharda Devi, Swami Vivekananda, and Swami Brahmanand. As the international hub of the Ramakrishna Mission, Belur Math includes offices and residences for officials.

Situated along the Ganges, its scenic ghat witnesses ever-rising waves. Despite heavy footfall, the Math maintains impeccable cleanliness, discipline, and spiritual serenity. The temple architecture is both calming and visually captivating. We explored each site in admiration.

We were truly fortunate to have the opportunity to see the then President Maharaj, Swami Smarananand Ji. Though aged and physically frail, his face radiated a bright and heartfelt smile, reflecting his unwavering spirit.

The aura of the Ramakrishna Temple was truly mesmerizing—no matter how long one gazes at it, it never feels enough. The lifelike marble statue of Thakur Ji in the sanctum sanctorum exudes an almost divine presence. The intricate carvings, both inside and out, reflect the immense devotion and craftsmanship of its creators.

Nearby, a museum houses relics of Thakur Ji, Swami Vivekananda, and other items significant to the monastery’s history. By afternoon, we relished the prasadam, a comforting serving of khichdi, at the Sharda Anna Kshetra within the monastery premises.

After departing from the monastery, we took a taxi to Victoria Memorial. Along the way, we passed the iconic Howrah Bridge (Rabindra Setu) and the historic Writers’ Building in the Maidan area. I also had the chance to see renowned landmarks like Eden Gardens and the Calcutta High Court. The names of several buildings and locations in Maidan still reflect remnants of British colonial influence.

Victoria Memorial

A stunning example of colonial-era marble architecture, was built by the British government around 1921 in honor of the British Queen. Today, it serves as a repository of India’s freedom struggle, showcasing the hardships endured by the Indian people through various exhibits and artistic representations.

My college friend Saurav met me at Victoria Memorial. Originally from Darjeeling, he now works in Kolkata. Upon learning about my visit with family, he eagerly came to greet us, keen to show me his city and even brought a thoughtful gift for my child.

Saurav warmly guided us through Victoria Memorial before taking us to Haldiram’s, a well-known vegetarian-friendly restaurant in Kolkata. After enjoying a light meal, we leisurely made our way to the renowned Indian Museum of Kolkata.

Just as Saurav reached into his pocket to buy the ticket, he realized his mobile had been stolen. He suspected it happened earlier while traveling on a crowded bus, as pickpockets are especially active during Pujo (Navratri). Apologizing, he bid us farewell, explaining that he needed to handle the legal formalities. Before leaving, he wished us an enjoyable evening and promised to meet again.

The Indian Museum

he oldest and largest museum in Asia, was established by the British in 1814. It houses an extensive collection of ancient artifacts, weaponry, jewelry, fossils, skeletons, mummies, and Mughal paintings. Some argue that much of its collection consists of items taken by the British during their rule.

The Indian Museum in Kolkata is vast, encompassing a diverse range of subjects—impossible to explore fully within a week. Nearby, New Market offers a shopping experience akin to Delhi’s Palika Bazaar or Mumbai’s Fashion Street, where a wide variety of goods are available at budget-friendly prices.

From here, we boarded a yellow taxi—the iconic symbol of Kolkata—and headed toward Maniktala, where the event was scheduled. Along the way, the driver pointed out a building, identifying it as the ancestral home of Swami Vivekananda.

The Literature Festival, organized by Sahitya Parishad in Maniktala, featured a keynote address by the esteemed chief guest, senior litterateur Honorable Shridhar Paradkar Ji. Kasture Uncle also shared his insights on the theme. Conducted in Bengali, the program emphasized the significance of indigenous languages and the mother tongue.

After the event, Kasture Uncle instructed, “Tomorrow at seven o’clock, we will leave for Kamarpukur. Be at the designated place on time—the taxi will arrive there. It’s late now, get some rest. We’ll meet in the morning.”

At dawn, we gathered at the designated spot and set off for Kamarpukur. Joining us as a local representative was Kasture Uncle’s aide, Dr. Mondol, who shared that he hails from Kharagpur and currently working in Shantiniketan.

Kamarpukur

renowned as the birthplace of Sri Ramakrishna Paramhansa, an eminent scholar of Advaita Vedanta, lies in Hooghly district, about 95 km from Kolkata. As we passed through Dum Dum area, the streets were bustling with Durga Pandal construction and decoration. Along the way, we stopped at a local shop in Aaram Bagh to savor the delicious Sandesh sweets, adding a delightful touch to our journey.

Our vehicle arrived in Kamarpukur around noon. Thanks to prior arrangements at Ramakrishna Math, food and a resting space were prepared. A caretaker informed us that the temple would open at 4 p.m. and suggested we enjoy prasadam and rest in the meantime—so we did.

Kamarpukur, a serene and picturesque town, thrives around the activities of Ramakrishna Mission and Math. Though no one was there to rest, conversations flowed as people passed the time.

Seeing my child asleep in my wife’s lap, I grabbed my camera and stepped out to explore the market and learn about the surroundings. As I wandered through the town’s narrow lanes, I stumbled upon a lively spot—a Durga Mata pandal where local youths were creating rangoli.

I greeted the eldest among them, introduced myself, and shared the purpose of my visit. He showed keen interest and introduced himself as Kartik Laha. Originally from Kamarpukur, he works in Surat but had returned home for the puja. He mentioned that his ancestors had a close association with Thakur ji.

While leading us through the revered Bishnu Temple of the Laha Family, Kartik Babu recounted how Shri Ramakrishna Paramhans i.e Thakur ji and his ancestors had offered their prayers there for generations. Thakur ji’s father, Khudiram Chattopadhyay, had migrated from a nearby village and settled in Kamarpukur. Thakur ji, known in his childhood as Gadadhar, attended a school run by the Laha family. It was during his visit to the Gopeshwar Shiva temple and Sitanath Pyne’s house that he first experienced the divine presence of Shiva.

Kartik Babu then took us to Halder Pukur (pond), various temples, and the revered Banyan tree, enriching our journey with stories of Kamarpukur’s sacred heritage.

Karthik Babu suggested visiting Mayer Bari, the ancestral home of Shri Shri Ma Sharda Devi, while waiting for the Ramakrishna Math to open.

Jayrambati

Located in Bankura district, about 7 km from Kamarpukur, Jayrambati is the birthplace of Shri Shri Sharda Maa. She lived here before marriage and after Thakur Ji’s nirvana, dedicating herself to sanyas and sadhana, and offering spiritual initiation.

The primary attractions include Shri Shri Matri Mandir and Ramakrishna Mission Sharda Sevashram, the original temple. Visitors can also explore Purana Bari (old house) and Nutan Bari (new house), where Mother Sharda spent her life. These traditional mud houses with grass roofs exude a rustic charm.

Other notable sites include Sundar Narayan Dharma Thakur’s temple, Singh Vahini temple (the village deity), and Punya Pukur (sacred pond), which hold spiritual significance. Local beliefs suggest the holy soil near Singh Vahini temple has miraculous properties, even helping barren cows conceive. Sitting quietly at Shri Shri Matri Mandir brought a sense of peace to all.

By evening, we returned from Jayrambati to Kamarpukur, where Kartik Laha’s friends were already waiting to welcome us. Without delay, we headed straight to the Mool Mandir and explored the Ramakrishna Math premises, where Thakur Ji was born and spent most of his life.

The saints of the Math have meticulously preserved his house and associated sites in their original form. After Thakur Ji’s nirvana, Mother Sharada resided in this very house. The premises also feature the Shri Raghuveer Temple, Yogi Shiv Temple, and other sacred structures, enriching the spiritual essence of Kamarpukur.

Karthik and his friends had thoughtfully prepared traditional snacks and tea for everyone. We were introduced to each one, sharing warm conversations. Before departing, we took a group photo as a keepsake. As a parting gift, Karthik Babu presented us with Sandesh, a traditional sweet, and a beautifully crafted terracotta clay conch. Everyone bid farewell with the hope of meeting again soon.

On our way back to Kolkata from Kamarpukur, we stopped to visit the revered Tarakeshwar Mahadev Temple, one of Bengal’s most famous Shiva temples. Known as the God of Fasting, devotees observe fasts here, believing that Bholenath fulfills their wishes and answers their prayers.

After visiting Tarakeshwar Mahadev Temple, we navigated through Kolkata’s heavy traffic and finally arrived at our destination by 10 p.m. After dropping off Uncle and his aide at their hotel, we proceeded to ours to unwind and rest for the night.

In the morning, we packed our luggage, left it at the reception, and set out for the renowned Kalighat Kali Temple, a revered Shakti Peeth in Kolkata. The Kalighat area, one of the city’s oldest and most significant localities, is deeply rooted in spiritual and cultural heritage.

The temple is a sacred site for devotees of Maa Kali, housing an idol that embodies her fierce form. She is depicted standing with her feet on Lord Shiva’s chest, adorned with a garland of human heads around her neck. In one hand, she holds an axe, while a severed head hangs from her waist. Her golden tongue protrudes, with drops of blood appearing to drip from it, symbolizing her divine power and transcendence.

The temple is renowned for Tantra Sadhana, and before visiting Kolkata, we were advised not to accept any prasad or offerings from strangers or enter areas where sacrifices take place. Despite its association with tantric rituals, the temple exudes a deep sense of peace, best experienced by sitting quietly within its premises.

Outside the temple, a bustling market stretches across the area. After navigating through it, we reached Kalighat Metro Station and boarded the metro to Maidan Metro. Kolkata Metro, inaugurated in 1984, is the oldest metro system in India and remains the city’s lifeline. Traveling on it was not only convenient but also the most cost-effective and comfortable journey of our trip.

Near Maidan Metro stands Birla Planetarium, established by industrialist Madhav Prasad Birla in 1963. As Asia’s largest planetarium, it can rightly be called a world of artificial stars. The regular programs conducted here are fascinating and truly remarkable. Adjacent to the planetarium is St. Paul’s Cathedral Church, the largest church in Kolkata, built in 1947. Unfortunately, due to ongoing renovation work, I couldn’t visit it this time.

Maidan, the heart of Kolkata, offers plenty to explore. We visited a nearby handloom fair for some shopping, where my wife picked up Bengal’s renowned taant and Murshidabad silk sarees for herself and the family. Amidst all the excitement, our son Aarav had the most fun, delighting her by enthusiastically visiting every shop.

After shopping in a local market near the Maidan area, we set off for Howrah Station, which was just as vast and bustling as I had always heard.

Our train was the Howrah–Jodhpur Express, filled with Marwari passengers traveling in groups to worship at Mata Ka Darbar for Navratri and Dussehra. Throughout the journey, they sang devotional bhajans dedicated to the Goddess, creating a spiritual atmosphere.

Eventually, we reached our village safely via Etawah.

My journey through Bengal, especially Kolkata—a city so close to my heart—has only deepened my admiration for it. This vibrant metropolis has contributed immeasurably to both India and the world, leaving an indelible mark through its rich history, scientific achievements, heritage, art, culture, spirituality, religion, and literature.

Yet, it is disheartening to observe that while the legacy of extraordinary figures such as Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose, Ramakrishna Paramhansa, Swami Vivekananda, Rabindranath Tagore, Shyama Prasad Mukherjee, Maharishi Aurobindo, Jagadish Chandra Bose, Satyajit Ray, Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar, Raja Ram Mohan Roy, Bankim Chandra Chatterjee, Sarat Chandra Chattopadhyay, and Chaitanya Mahaprabhu still looms large, the city’s once-flourishing intellectual spark seems to have dimmed in recent times.

This journey has been a profound learning experience for me. Through this work, I hope you will come to appreciate the essence of Kolkata and Bengal just as much as I have.

Shubho Durga Pooja