Located approximately 50 kilometers south of Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh near Mohna, the village of Tikla (Teekla) rests along the banks of the Parvati River. Perched on the hill of Tikla are remarkable rock-cut frescoes, believed to date back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries, which are associated with the Vrishni Dynasty. These murals are thought to have been created during the reign of this dynasty. In 1958, the renowned Indian archaeologist Dr. Vishnu Shridhar Wakankar discovered these frescoes. His findings were later documented and published in 1973 in his seminal work Painted Rock Shelters of India, which provides a comprehensive account of rock paintings and shelters across central and southern India.
The Tikla archaeological site, believed to date back to the Palaeolithic to Mesolithic age, remains largely unrecognized due to a lack of surveys and conservation efforts. Visiting on a friend’s suggestion, I enjoyed the beautiful weather, fields of lush crops, and sights of Sonchiriya Bird Sanctuary and Ranighati Gaushala along the way. Locals pointed out the Tikla hill, known for the Kankali Mata temple and nearby caves, though unaware of the site’s rock paintings and shelters.
While passing by, we met two local boys, Deepak and Suresh, and asked them about the location. They eagerly offered to guide us when we mentioned we had come to explore the area’s heritage. Enthusiastically sharing details about their village, they led us along a rocky hill path, sparse with thorny trees. These hardy trees seemed to be preserving the heritage. After climbing halfway and navigating an inaccessible, thorn-filled path, we reached a cave—the destination we were meant to find
The cave wall featured three rock art figures, likely depicting Krishna, Balarama, and Subhadra. Engraved with Brahmi inscriptions, one reads ‘Dambuken Karitam Odanakita,’ suggesting the painting was created by or for someone named Dambuk. The left figure, identified as Balarama, holds a plough, wears a distinctive crown, and is dressed in attire inspired by forest dweller art. The second figure holds a dagger with a serpent at its tip.
The central figure, taller than the first, is identified as Vasudev Krishna (Lord Jagannath). He holds a chakra in his left hand and a crescent-tipped dagger in his right. His crown is adorned with a round gem-like object or possibly a peacock feather, adding to its allure.
The third figure, smaller than the others, depicts a woman, likely Subhadra, holding an umbrella that does not directly touch her hand. Such imagery, where a sister holds an umbrella for her brother, is uncommon in literature. Alternatively, the painter may have intended to portray the Kushan period goddess Ekanansha, a form associated with Subhadra.
The depiction of the three figures closely matches descriptions in the Harivansh-Puran and is unique to Tikla, apart from Jagannathpuri. Wakankar ji described them as a king, a woman, and a servant holding an umbrella. Tikla, once part of Braj, served as a key stop on the Mathura-Ujjain-Tumen route. Over 130 painted rock shelters, mainly in sandstone and limestone caves, are found across Central and South India. Stone Age inhabitants illustrated their surroundings and recorded symbols in scripts such as Ashoka Brahmi, Gupta Brahmi, and Nagari style.
We explored numerous caves in remote areas of the hill, featuring Chakravyuha patterns from the Mahabharata, along with abundant depictions of flora and fauna such as Sambhar, Bison, Peacock, and Deer. Predominantly rendered in natural red hues, the artwork also included floral designs, reflecting the artists’ focus on animals visible in their environment.
The Parvati River flows through the foothills on the other side of the hillock. From the rocky slopes, one can enjoy captivating panoramic views of farms, barns, rural life, and natural beauty. Besides the caves, we visited Kankali Mata, revered by locals, and saw havan kunds used for occasional religious ceremonies.
At the suggestion of local youth, we visited a newly built temple by a local family, 1 km away on a dirt road across the main road. The lush green complex, marked by a plaque reading ‘Divya Dham Ashram,’ led to a beautiful Nagar-style sandstone temple with intricate carvings. Surrounded by greenery, the serene and clean environment makes it an ideal spot for a family outing.
An excursion trip to Tikla from Gwalior was perfect place where we experience heritage, scenic beauty, natural, rural lifestyle, religious, and many more.
How to Reach.
Tikla is located in the Gwalior district of Madhya Pradesh, India. The best way to reach Tikla is:
- By Road: Tikla is easily accessible by road from Gwalior (55 km) and Shivpuri (55 km). You can take a private taxi or a local bus to reach the site. Gwalior is well connected by National Highway (Gwalior-Indore Highway), making road travel convenient.
- By Air: The nearest airport is Gwalior Airport (about 55 km away). From there, you can hire a taxi or take a bus to Tikla.
- By Train: The nearest railway station is Mohna Railway Station (about 5 km away). Gwalior (55 km) is the best way to take trains for Tikla. It is well-connected to all major cities of India.
