Chanderi Diaries

Chanderi, nestled in the Ashok Nagar district of Madhya Pradesh, is famed for its medieval forts and magical handloom traditions. Once a crucial stronghold on the Malwa–Bundelkhand frontier, the town served as a strategic military outpost for northern rulers. Over centuries, it witnessed the reign of diverse dynasties — from the Malwa nobility and imperial courts of Delhi to the Bundela chieftains and Maratha leaders — each leaving their imprint on its cultural and economic prosperity.

From the heights of Kirti Pal’s Fort, the panoramic view reveals a valley town embraced by hills, echoing centuries of history. Alongside its fortifications and palaces, weaving has remained the lifeblood of Chanderi for over 400 years, with generations of artisans sustaining its reputation as a hub of exquisite textiles.

Madhya Pradesh- the heart of Incredible India is not called so, only because of its location in the centre of the country but also because of it offers diverse experiences in art, culture, nature, religion and history. The cultural heritage of Madhya Pradesh is ancient and chequered. Innumerable Monuments, exquisitely carved temples, forts and palaces are reminders of the glorious past. Monuments of valour and glory, love and passion have been captured in them by the sensitive chisels of master craftsmen.

After knowing this much information about Chanderi, Explorer in me, pushed me towards Chanderi. So I along with my friends planned to visit this wonderland which comprises of heritage, culture, art and craft, rural lifestyle, temple, water bodies and what not

Here my story begins.

Day 1: 

Hire a taxi and left Gwalior at 10:00 am for Chanderi via Sonagiri, Datia, Dinara and Pichhore. Roads conditions were good and climate was also pretty well. Landscape of Village was soothing and rural lifestyle was also hospitable.

Reached Chanderi by 2:00 pm, Check-in to Hotel Tana Bana.

At 4:00 pm, we hired a local guide and moved out for exploring the town. Our first attraction was Chanderi Fort.

Chanderi Fort

Perched atop a 200‑metre high hill, Chanderi Fort stretches nearly 2 kilometres in length and over a kilometre across. Originally constructed by Raja Kirti Pal, it later came under the influence of successive dynasties — from powerful northern warlords and imperial commanders to Bundela kings and the Scindia rulers — each leaving their distinct imprint on its architecture and legacy. Within its crenellated walls stand remarkable structures, including a three‑storey palace complex, an early period mosque, Jouhar Smarak, Kila Kothi, Hawa Mahal, and the memorial of Baiju Bawra, the legendary singer. On the slopes of the fort lies the revered Jageshwari Temple, adding a spiritual dimension to this historic citadel.

After Fort, moved towards Shehzadi ka Rauza.

Shehzadi ka Rauza

It is one of the most impressive tombs in Chanderi. The Memorial to love, Shehzadi ka Rauza is an architectural delight known for its serpentine brackets and intricate jalis.

From Shehzadi ka Rauza, We headed towards Battisi Baoli.

Battisi Baoli

Abul Fazl in Ain-i-Akbari records an existence of 1,200 Baolis in Chanderi. Of those that remain, the most spectacular is the 15th century Battisi Baoli. Standing within a fenced compound, it is 20 sq. m. and four storeys deep. Thirty-Two (Battis, in Hindi) steps lead down to the water level, giving it a name Battisi Baoli.

Where to Shop in Chanderi

It’s almost dark, so I came to Dilli Darwaja (Delhi Gate) for shopping some Chanderi saris for my mother. Main Market of Town i.e. Sadar Bazaar is around Dilli Darwaja. It was great time to do some shopping in local markets of Chanderi.

After shopping we headed back to hotel for dinner and overnight stay.

Day 2:

Good Morning from Chanderi,

Morning walk to Pranpur, which is famous for its Rural Tourism Resort, is 3 km on the foothill of the hill.

Amaree Rural Tourism Resort, Pranpur

It’s a beautiful resort, which gives you a glimpse of rural life. Initially, this rural tourism project was initiated by Ministry of Tourism, Government of India for the promotion of Rural Tourism. Now days, It attracts tourists from all over India and offer them a comfortable stay at minimal charges.

Then we moved to Badal Mahal,

Badal Mahal

Originally known as Vaadan Mahal Gate, this monumental structure was designed to greet guests with music and festivity. Today, Badal Mahal Gate stands as Chanderi’s most iconic landmark, built in the mid‑15th century under the patronage of regional sovereigns of the Malwa court. Conceived as a ceremonial “Welcome Gate” for visiting dignitaries, it symbolized the town’s prestige and hospitality. Some historians interpret it as a triumphal archway, celebrating Chanderi’s stature as a flourishing centre of culture and power.

In front of Badal Mahal, There is a beautiful Mosque named Jama Masjid,

Jama Masjid

The Jama Masjid is the largest and the oldest mosque in Chanderi and possibly all of Bundelkhand. This three-domed Jama Masjid was built in 15 century. It is very important architecture of Chanderi with size 31.42m X 24.38m. This holy place is decorated with stone carved art and attracts tourists.

After Jama Masdid, we moved to our next tourism attraction i.e. Chanderi Museum.

Chanderi Museum

Archaeological Survey of India’s Chanderi Museum was inaugurated in 2007 and is located 2 km on Bhopal Road from Jama Masjid. The two storied museum is housed in a swanky new building, surrounded by manicured lawns that double up as a sculpture garden.

After getting a lot of Information from ASI’s museum, we marched to Koshal Mahal.

Koshak Mahal

According to Tawarikh-i-Ferishta, that Mahmood II Khilji, Sultan of Malwa passed through this place in the Year 1445 and ordered that a seven-storeyed palace (Koshak-i-Haft Manzil) should be built here. The present building is the outcome of these orders the style of architecture resembles that of Mandu. It was rejuvenating during the reign of H.H. Maharaja Sir Madhav Rao Scindia Alijah Bahadur of Gwalior in 1923 by the Gwalior Archaeological Department.

After Koshal Mahal and related stories, we turned back to city moved towards Pichhore for exploring lasts attraction i.e. Singhpur Mahal

Singhpur Mahal

Singhpur Mahal is situated on hilltop of Vindhyachal and hill is surrounded by lush green forests and lake. According to local guide, this three-storeyed building was built by Maharaja Devi Singh Bundela of Orchha in the year 1656 for resting and hunting animals. Later Scindia family used it as their guest house and then it used as Chanderi Museum. This peaceful place in green forest and near to lake fascinate tourist towards it.

Other Tourist Places of Chanderi 

Budhi Chanderi, Lakshman Temple, Chakala Baoli, Rajghat Dam, Kati Ghat, Jain Temples, Vikrampur etc.

How to Reach Chanderi 

Airways: Nearest Airport is Gwalior (210 km) which is directly connected with New Delhi and Mumbai.

Railways:  Nearest Railway Stations are Lalitpur (40 km) and Ashok Nagar (65km) both are directly connected with all major cities of India.

Roadways: There are few buses running on these routes. Bus is available from Ashok Nagar, Pichhore, Lalitpur etc and better option is to hire a taxi.

Where to Stay in Chanderi

There are various Private Hotels and Resorts available in Chanderi but the best one to stay is Hotel Tana Bana of MP Tourism and other one is Amraee Rural Tourism Resort. Tourist can also stay in Homestays developed by MP tourism in various villages around the Chanderi named Pranpur, Vikranmpur, etc.

Where to Eat in Chanderi

What to Buy in Chanderi

Chanderi handloom Sarees of fine silk fabric woven by its skilled artisans. These are not only famous in India but throughout the world. Sadar Bazaar is the best place to pick Chanderi Sarees and fabrics, available in wide varieties of colours and designs.

Best Time to Visit Chandei: 

September to April.